Building a Mud Oven with Soil/Concrete

The ovens demonstrated here are based on designs from the Jewish Moroccan community in Israel. They were built at the Jewish Moroccan Museum and Archive for Living Culture at Moshav Sedot Micah, a village in the center of Israel.  There is a profound way in which these ovens are traditional constructions. The ovens are built on the ground, but with the ground elevated so that one doesn’t have to sit on the ground to operate the oven. The same effect could be achieved by excavating a place to stand or sit in front of the oven which was a common system for military ovens in field kitchens.

The oven is built over a pile of manure and straw is used to separate the manure layer from the mud. The mud is made up of sand, soil, and a little concrete, so this is a concrete/earth construction material similar to the material called for the  Sunset Magazine’s Adobe oven (which is three parts soil and 1 part portland cement). The use of a small amount of portland cement greatly simplifies the mixing of the mud as it virtually eliminates the need for any skill in preparing the soil (clay) mix.

These ovens are not insulated. That are designed for making breads with a fire going in the oven which is also why the door opening is much larger than in a conventional European domed oven.

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The Dislike for the Sour Taste in Bread (1903)

LEAVEN is nothing more nor less than flour and water, stirred together and kept in a warm place until fermentation commences. Every time the baker makes bread, a certain quantity should be kept back in an earthen pot for the next sponge.

The use of leaven is supposed to have originated in Egypt. It is very seldom used in this country now, although in some parts of Cumberland it occurs in the manufacture of a particular kind of brown bread. In some European countries where yeast is not easily obtained leaven is used. Sailors use it on long voyages. But, like most things where fermentation is concerned, care and cleanliness must be observed. But let leaven be ever so well manufactured, the bread made from it has always a rank, sour taste, and is not to be compared with yeast-made bread.

The new system of making bread: a concise and practical treatise on bread and how to make it, with a large quantity of other useful and practical matter, including all the latest systems of quick sponging by Robert Wells, London, 1903, pages 16.

Explicit references to the taste in bread are few and far between.  I point out in my book, Bread, a global history, that the adoption of sourdough bread as a high status bread in America, Britain and other countries with an  Anglo-bread tradition, such as Australia, represented one of the more radical changes in bread preference for which we have documentary evidence. Both British and American 19th-century cookbooks are clear that sourness in bread is a bad thing and that yeast is the premium leavening.

This recipe for leaven by the English author Robert Wells from 1903 makes clear that he saw leaven as a leavening of last resort — you live in France where brewers, the traditional source of yeast are few and far between — or you are stranded in a boat on a long sea voyage. Of course, the sourness of a leaven leavened bread is largely determined by how the recipe is managed. Sourness is generally not appreciated in today’s France thus even though their artisan bakery breads are almost uniformly risen with levain they never taste sour.

Also of interest in this quote from Wells is his assumption that leavened bread originated with the Egyptians. There is no factual basis for this assertion, but you still find it a given in most bread histories that leavened bread was invented in Egypt.

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Hearth Cooking at Plimoth Plantation

What you see here is a woman cooking in an iron pot over a fire. It is hard to see, but the iron pot is hanging over the fire from an iron hook. The woman in the photograph is stirring the fire. This pot has three short legs so it can also stand on the ground where it can be heated with embers shoveled out of the fireplace under the pot.

It takes a lot of heat to boil water so when boiling the pot would be hung over the fire. The fire is much hotter than a fire on kitchen stove. Thus, this water will boil much faster for pasta than would the same amount of water put onto your stove at home.

When cooking something that is a little thick, something that could burn if the heat was too high, then this three-legged pot would be placed on the ground and heated with embers. Because the cook could exactly control the amount of embers pushed under and around the pot she could precisely regulate the heat.

Sometimes there is no need to have any heat under a big iron cooking pot. If one wants the soup or stew or porridge to cook slowly then it is enough to just set the pot beside the fire. It will simmer on the side closest to the fire and that is enough. As far as the food cooking is concerned it really doesn’t matter whether a pot simmers on its side or from underneath, as it does when we heat pots on our kitchen stoves.

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Reimer Seeds

This is  a very interesting company. Their seed offering is vast. Whatever you choose to look at you will find that refreshingly there are real choices. My first test of a site is usually to check the artichoke offering and then something like beets. Reimer Seeds offers 6 different artichokes which means that you are likely to  see a variety you have not seen before. The Italian heirloom Romanesco Artichoke is one that I haven’t seen before. Their beet offering is  impressive. They sell two white beets (Albino and Blankoma) as well as a carrot-shaped beet (Colossal Long Red Mangels). The tomato offering is so huge it is broken up alphabetically. You can download a PDF of any section of the online catalog you look at. The PDF for the A section of tomatoes is 4 pages. This includes pictures and descriptions.  You can also search by country of origin which will find you, for example, six chili peppers from the Central African Republic. The company is master of the database. You can also search on heirloom, on gourmet selection, and many other ways to help you find what you might be looking for. The plant descriptions are good with an emphasis on taste and use as well as cultivation advice. There are customer reviews of some of the seeds ordered and the web site tells you what other people ordered who purchased the seed variety you are looking at. In short, a complex site with 5000 vegetable, herb, and flower offerings. Reimer Seeds sells seeds in packets as well as in pounds for farmers.

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Making Tortillas from Nixtamal

Bear with this grainy video. It is shot in low light with a simple camera. The video documents two women making tortillas on a clay griddle (a comal) fired with branches from masa (dough) that is prepared from nixtamal (whole corn kernels boiled with lime (cal in Spanish) and ground on a grindstone (matate). The nixtamal has already been ground into masa by the time the film opens but you see the dough on the matate. The tortillas are being formed by being slapped between two hands AND in a separate technique by being placed on the bed of a metate over a piece of thin plastic and then slapped into shape. It is not clear in this video but the comal will be made of terra cotta and coated with a layer of whitewash which is lime and water.

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Sand Hill Preservation Center

This is a family-run farm dedicated to preserving rare poultry and vegetables. Orders are accepted by post only, and credit cards are not accepted. You will not believe the breadth of Sand Hill’s offerings, many of which are rare. For example, they offer a selection of heirloom beans form Appalachia. Unfortunately, while there are some good thoroughly descriptions in their catalog, others are terse, in the extreme. For example, this is the description for a tomato called Stone: mid, Ind, rather hard fleshed, round in shape, 10 oz. fruits. Pkt. $1.75 OG. Plant descriptions are probably overrated, anyway, partly a literary form that makes perusing seed catalogs such a pleasure. In this case, which is really always the case regardless of the prose, I doubt you can go wrong with any of their selections as long as you live where the summers are hot. Sand Hill Preservation Center is located in Iowa. They are thus able to grow and offer sweet potatoes, a root crop that will not thrive in my Coastal California garden. If you are lucky enough to live where the summers are hot, at the very least, peruse the Sand Hill catalog and order sweet potatoes. This is a family business that can use your support.

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Underwood Gardens

I have recently revisited Underwood Gardens. On this review I’d like to point out their focus on what they term “Extreme Gardening“. These are plants selected for deep continental climates where there are wide extremes in temperature, both hot and cold. Underwood Gardens offers a large number of 19th-century selections. Be sure to look at the bean list. The plant descriptions are superior, a model of excellence for offering a mix of historical information for the selection, growing information, and suggestions for use. Underwood Gardens also offers the botanic names of its selections which is particular helpful when perusing vegetables such as beans because all beans are not Phaseolus. Underwood also offers a number of unusual selections such as the Dwarf Bees Bush Bean (Pahseolus coccineus) with its red flowers.

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How much amanita muscaria is safe to eat?

Detoxified Fly Agaric

How much Amanita muscaria to is safe to eat? When you detoxify the “Fly Amanita” by leaching out the water soluble toxins by  parboiling thinly sliced mushrooms in plentiful  water for at least ten, and preferably fifteen minutes, you transform Amanita muscaria into a prime edible mushroom. Short of lab testing which has yet to be done all that can be said is that there appears to be no toxins left. One can eat as much as one likes. (See my main page on Amanita muscaria and accompanying article from Economic Botany.)  Once detoxified, you can eat as much as you like. This said, there is nothing worse than getting a stomach ache because one is afraid that one has eaten a mushroom that will make you sick (or inebriated when you don’t want to be). The prudent way to begin eating Amanita muscaria is to start with parboiling a portion of a cap in plentiful water for fifteen minutes, throw the water away, and then cook with the now parboiled mushroom as you normally do with other mushrooms you eat. Work up to larger amounts as you build confidence that the mushrooms is, indeed, safe to eat.

Boiling mushrooms tends to tighten their cellular structure, thus a boiled mushroom tends to become firmer rather than softer. Boiling the fly agaric (or any other mushroom) in lightly salted water that includes a bay leaf and a clove of garlic enhances the mushroom’s intrinsic flavor, if it has one, and infuses the mushroom with flavor if it doesn’t. The Amanita muscaria I pick in Northern California  tend to have attractive sweet tonalities. It is an inherently good mushroom that is worth preparing for the table.

What is the safe dose for undetoxified Amantia muscaria?

But what if you want to eat Amanita muscaria without detoxifying it? How much  Amanita muscaria is safe to eat? Mushroom field guides often say that it is poisonous. What do they mean bv poisonous? How poisonous is it, really? What are the facts?

For a full explanation of what field guides mean by the mushroom being poisonous and the facts of the case I refer you to my Economic Botany article. The short of it is that field guides tend to make edibility statements that are more ethnographic than based on lab tested science. They rarely take cooking method into account when remarking on edibility but instead rely on cultural norms. Thus, for example, morels are listed as prime edibles (which they are) but they are likely to make you throw up if you eat them raw. In our culture we always cook morels and limit raw mushrooms on our salads to store-bought Agaricus bisporus. Thus, a field guide author can say that morels are edible because nobody puts them on salads. Denis Benjamin describes a mass  poisoning at a banquet occasioned by just such an error having been made in his book, Mushrooms Poisons and Panaceas. If our culture always boiled mushrooms and threw the water away, then the fly agaric would always be listed in field guides as edible.

But what if you want to experience the mind altering effects of eating Amanita muscaria? How much is the right amount, and how much is too much? I have no personal experience eating Amanita muscaria for the purpose of becoming inebriated. From reading in books and on the internet my sense is that a standard dose for those consuming the mushroom for its psycho active qualities is 1 to 2 caps for a healthy adult. Cap size varies enormously (a Northern California muscaria can have  cap equal to several Lithuanian specimens) and potency varies between specimens. Start with small quantities to work out what a reasonable dose is for you. Be patient. Develop a sense of how you and the mushroom get along when it is not detoxified keeping in mind that drying or grilling (or any cooking that doesn’t leach out the toxins) makes the toxins stronger than they are in a fresh cap (the ibotemic acid converts to muscimol when the mushroom is heated or dried) so keep track of what you are doing.

If you don’t detoxify the mushroom by parboiling, then as with all other inebriants, you must not drive and, as it says on  alcohol bottle labels, don’t operate machinery. If you are going to experiment, then be prudent, and do so in a safe place.

There is probably no point in offering common sense to those who want to push limits. What I can tell you is that the literature on mushroom poisoning does not seem to be able to provide a single instance of a healthy person dying from consuming an overdose of Amanita muscaia. This said, the oft quoted case of the death of Count de Vecchi who died of eating Amanita muscaria in 1896 demonstrates the foolishness of experimenting when one has a chronic illness.While his case is shrouded in mystery — did he experiment on purpose or did he eat undetoxified Amanita muscaria by accident — he was not healthy to begin with and did not recover from his ill fated mushroom omelet.

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An American Apple Bread circa 1860

A very light pleasant bread is made in France by a mixture of apples and flour, in the proportion of one of the former to two of the latter. The usual quantity of yeast is employed as in making common bread, and is beat with flour and warm pulp of the apples after they have boiled, and the dough is then considered as set: it is then put in a proper vessel, and allowed to rise for eight to twelve hours, and then baked in long loaves. Very little water is requisite; none, generally, if the apples are very fresh.
The Practical Housekeeper (p 469)Mrs. Ellet, NY 1857 Continue reading

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Seeds Trust

When seed catalogs were all printed people used to order dozens of catalogs and then spend hours with them during the winter months dreaming of their summer gardens. This online seed business offers a different kind of sitting and dreaming in some ways, unfortunately, less pleasant than sitting in an armchair beside the fire though with tablet computers that is becoming more possible. What one finds with online catalogs is that one often catches glimpses of the families behind the business as many seed companies are still very small – real labors of love. The Seed Trust is run by a father and son team with a particular interest in high altitude gardening — which means in practice that they are interested in vegetables that thrive in short seasons and intense weather. Seeds of Trust were pioneers going to the Soviet Union as it opening up in the late 1980s to collect seeds. Their offering of short-season tomatoes is extraordinary. You will want to spend time at this site. They are in the midst of developing a new site and I hope that one of you will let me know when they do so I can review it.

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